My photography gear
I'm a keen amateur nature photographer who NEVER leaves home without my camera and at least a couple of lenses. My hatred of zoo's and 'staged' photographs means that ALL of my images are taken 'in the field'.
This approach does limit me to what subjects are available to me, but ensures that all of my images are 'natural'. Much of my enjoyment and satisfaction of getting a great shot, comes from the knowledge that I have had to work hard to achieve it. This can include trekking for many miles, in all weathers and spending many hours either in my portable hide, or stealthily getting as close as possible to my subject.
One of the most common questions that I am asked, is what gear do I use and why did I choose it?
I have been meaning to answer that question in a blog for quite a while now, but never seem to get the time. Anyway, today has dawned very cold, wet, miserable and misty, so I guess now is a good time to give you my answers and hopefully pass on some tips at the same time.
My 'Lowepro' Vertex 300 Backpack fully loaded and ready to go - It also takes my 17" Laptop! |
The majority of my photography is wildlife and occasionaly sport, so when searching for my latest camera gear, I was looking for a camera that would offer me the ultimate specification for my use, at a reasonable price. A wedding, or portrait photographer, would likely give you a very different list.
Nikon D500 body
Most camera bodies are a compromise of specifications, to offer a camera that is great at everything. However, what I needed, was a camera that was great at most things, but outstanding for wildlife and fast action sport. So, when Nikon launched their flagship crop-sensor D500 a few years ago, it took wildlife and sports photography to a whole new level.
- Superfast autofocus to 'lock on' to fast moving targets.
- Shooting rate of 10 frames per second to capture every moment.
- 200 frame 'raw' buffer, to keep up with all the action.
- ISO performance of between 100 and 51,000 to allow 'low light' shooting.
- Crop sensor body, which gives 50% more focal length than 'full frame' bodies.
- Swivel LCD Touchscreen for ease of shooting from above, or at low level.
- Lithium battery for long days shooting. - I also use a 'grip' with mine, which houses an additonal battery.
At less than half the price of a Nikon D5, but sharing many identical features, the Nikon D500 offers incredible value for money!
Lenses
I wanted to cover all focal lengths without breaking the bank and have succeeded in buying a great range of lenses, covering everything from 11mm to 500mm.
I still dream of owning a Nikon 600 f4 FL VR, Prime lens, but at £12,500, it was not on the shopping list!
Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f2.8 Ultra Wide Angle
Fantastic quality lens, that's great for landscapes and astrophotography, at a fraction of the price of Nikon's equivalent.
Nikon 18-55mm VRII
A hugely underestimated lens at 'budget' money. This lens is great as a 'walkaround' lens and gives super sharpness and outstanding image quality!
Nikon 70-200 f4 VR
Nikon's legendary 70-200 f2.8, is twice the price, but with todays modern DSLR's, the cheaper f4 version is just as good.
Nikon 200-500 f5.6 VR
Versatility of focal length, vibration reduction and fantastic autofocus, make this the ultimate 'value for money' superzoom. It also works well with a 1.4 teleconverter, which turns it into a 700mm lens at the long end, albeit at the cost of 2 stops, making it a f8 lens!
my Nikon 200-500 f5.6 mounted on my D500 - a superb wildlife combination! |
Lens Update......
I now also have a Nikon 500 f4 G ED VRII Prime Lens! - bought second-hand
Although the focal length is the same that my existing 200-500, will go to. This is a monster of a lens, which gives me Nikons finest optics, along with an extra stop of light (f4).
Most of my photography, is 'long lens' based, and this is a very expensive professional lens. Whilst I can carry it over my shoulder, for short distances when attached to my tripod. The total weight of the outfit is around 13 kilos, so for longer treks and to protect my shoulder, and the lens against knocks and scratches, I use my Lowepro Trekker 600 AW iii, which offers the best protection and also takes my tripod. This also leaves my hands free when covering awkward terrain!
I now also have a Nikon 500 f4 G ED VRII Prime Lens! - bought second-hand
Although the focal length is the same that my existing 200-500, will go to. This is a monster of a lens, which gives me Nikons finest optics, along with an extra stop of light (f4).
All of my 'long' lenses have camouflaged, rubber backed neoprene 'lens coats', which blend in with the scenery, whilst also protecting the lens from knocks and scratches, whilst exposed to undergrowth.
Macro Lens and Accessories
Macrophotography is extreme close-up photography.
The price of the ultimate dedicated macro lens (Nikon 200 f4 Micro) is beyond my reach, but by adding either extension tubes, acromats, or reversing an additional lens to your usual lens, it is possible to obtain decent macro shots on a budget. I use Raynox acromats, either with my 18-55, or 70-200 lenses.
Using these means that you will now be getting close to your subject, very close! In fact, in most instances, you will be so close to the subject (literally, just a few centimeters), that you are likely to block out most of the light. You will therefore need some additional lighting and I use a Marumi Ring Flash, which mounts directly on the end of the lens.
Raynox DCR 150 |
Marumi Ring Flash |
Macro set-up ready for action on my D500 with 70-200 f4 lens |
Shot using a Raynox DCR250 and Marumi Ring Flash with my Nikon 70-200 f4 lens |
Trail Cam
When searching for wildlife, one of my essential items, are my trail cams. They are great when I find a visual trail of an animal in a field, but have no idea what has made it. By mounting the trail cams nearby, I can leave them in place for a few days and they will record the animal (video and stills) and also log the time of day, when the images were taken. This allows me to return at the appropriate time, set up my gear and photograph the subject.
This fox was captured in my woods
Clothing
When photographing wildlife all year round, it is important to be comfortable, as well as wearing clothing that supports what you are doing. Whilst I will often have all my gear with me in the car (in its lowepro bag), it is normal, that I only require a couple of lenses with me on actual shoots. Rather than lug around everything in my backpack, it is easier to wear a jacket or outfit that will hold and protect just what I need for the specific shoot.
During the warmer months, I tend to utilise my 'safari' vest, which holds what I need in its 15 pockets, as well as having reinforced shoulder pads for supporting my monopod, or tripod. There is even room for my sandwiches and drinks bottles!
In colder weather, I use my superb 'Stealth Gear' photographers suit. These suits are sadly no longer available, but are without doubt, the best photographers jackets & trousers ever made. Not only are they waterproof, but incredibly warm and practical to wear, with 18 pockets in the jacket and a further 9 pockets in the trousers (there are vents in the jacket and trousers, if it gets too warm). If that's not enough, the jacket also includes 2 hoods (one has a 'face mesh' to hide your face from subjects and protect from flies etc) and in the back of the jacket, is a built in 'drop down' waterproof fabric seat, so that you can sit down on muddy or wet surfaces. - If you ever find one for sale......buy it!
Warm hat and gloves are essential in cold weather - Binoculars are a must have. |
Save a fortune on dedicated photographers gloves, by simply cutting a small slit in some thermal gloves. You will have all the control and sensitivity of your camera's shutter button and features easy to hand, whilst remaining warm!
Footware is critical, especially if you are hiking over rough terrain or wet ground. Slippery surfaces, such as wet rocks and loose surfaces can easily result in accidents to yourself and your gear. I use Salomon 'Quest' 4d Waterproof Hiking Boots, which are supple enough to give some feel, whilst rugged enough to deal with anything you are likely to throw at them. Having covered many miles in them, including crossing shallow streams, I can testify that they are indeed waterproof and hard wearing.
Footware is critical, especially if you are hiking over rough terrain or wet ground. Slippery surfaces, such as wet rocks and loose surfaces can easily result in accidents to yourself and your gear. I use Salomon 'Quest' 4d Waterproof Hiking Boots, which are supple enough to give some feel, whilst rugged enough to deal with anything you are likely to throw at them. Having covered many miles in them, including crossing shallow streams, I can testify that they are indeed waterproof and hard wearing.
Other items
a 'Pop-Up' Hide is sometimes the only way you can get close to the subject |
Hides come in all shapes and sizes and can be either permanent fixtures, or transportable, like my pop-up hide. Nowadays, pop-up hides can be bought for less than £200.00 and are easy to use. Mine packs down to a size of less than 24" diameter and when required, I simply take it from its 'backpack' cover and 'shake' it out!
Inside, I have room for two people with fold-up chairs and space for all my gear. With my camera and lens mounted on to my gimbal and tripod, i'm ready to go in just a couple of minutes. The version I use, has four windows at normal height (one on each face) and one window at ground level, which is great when your subject is at low level. Each window can be unzipped just as much as you need and every window has a camouflage mesh to ensure that you can see your subject, whilst it can't see you.
I also use camouflaged, neoprene lens covers to help hide and protect the protruding lens. |
Of course, sometimes, it's not possible to erect a hide like this (for example on sloping river banks with lots of vegetation). In these circumstances, I use my 'Bag Hide', which takes no space and is simply thrown over you, but has a dedicated lens opening.
Camera and Lens support
Hand holding a heavy camera with a long 500mm lens, can be hard work and very tiring. Even with a modern lens with vibration reduction, camera shake can ruin your shots. When a tripod, or monopod are not practical or available, another great item to have with you, is a bean-bag, for those times when you may need to support your camera/lens on the ground, a fence, boulders, car window etc.
Hand holding a heavy camera with a long 500mm lens, can be hard work and very tiring. Even with a modern lens with vibration reduction, camera shake can ruin your shots. When a tripod, or monopod are not practical or available, another great item to have with you, is a bean-bag, for those times when you may need to support your camera/lens on the ground, a fence, boulders, car window etc.
I use a 'Lensmaster RH2' gimbal with my monopod, or tripod. Gimbals are essential if you want to have support for long lenses and retain full movement of the lens across the vertical and horizontal plane. Although you can buy a cheap 'chinese' gimbal for around £75.00, I would not want to rely on it to support £5k's worth of photography equipment! The 'Lensmaster RH2' gimbal costs around £200.00, but is superb quality, with each one being hand-built by Rob who owns the company.
The same goes for tripods, so please make sure that your monopod, or tripod is substantial enough to support your gear. I recommend 'Gitzo' Carbon Fibre tripods and monopods for their strength, light weight and ability to dampen vibration. - With 400mm lens and above, go for a Gitzo 5 series, you will be investing in a product that will last a lifetime. Their tripods are not cheap at around £1000.00, but I often see second-hand units for sale on ebay for around half of that figure.
Another tripod that every serious photographer should have, is the 'Benbo Mk1'. This tripod will get your camera into any situation or angle you could ever need. It takes some getting used to, as it is a little like wrestling with an octopus, as the legs and beam, can be individually rotated through 360 degrees! It is a unique tripod and heavy, but at around £70.00 (second-hand), it is superb for 'macro' work and amazing value for money.
Just sometimes, 'aftermarket' products come along which really are as good, if not better than Nikon and the 'Mieke' Battery Grip with wireless remote control, is one of them. I have been using mine now for 3 years and it is superb. Not only is the battery grip 1/4 the price of Nikon's, but it also includes a wireless remote control (Nikon's does not) with a staggering 100 mtr range!
I find the battery grip, makes the camera much better balanced (especially with larger lenses fitted), as well as doubling up my battery capacity. On a long day, I can easily take over a thousand shots, which would kill just one battery.
The wireless remote, is invaluable, as it allows me to set up the camera on a subject and move well away......leaving me in a potentially safer/more comfortable environment, safe in the knowledge that I can fire the shutter from up to 100 mtrs away. This is useful in a number of different situations and I frequently use this in my garden, late at night when photographing astronomical subjects, whilst controlling the shutter from the warmth of my lounge. No need for timer activation and no vibration from pressing the shutter on the camera!
My gear mounted on my Gitzo 5532 tripod - This was a showery day, so note the waterproof camera cover. |
The same goes for tripods, so please make sure that your monopod, or tripod is substantial enough to support your gear. I recommend 'Gitzo' Carbon Fibre tripods and monopods for their strength, light weight and ability to dampen vibration. - With 400mm lens and above, go for a Gitzo 5 series, you will be investing in a product that will last a lifetime. Their tripods are not cheap at around £1000.00, but I often see second-hand units for sale on ebay for around half of that figure.
Another tripod that every serious photographer should have, is the 'Benbo Mk1'. This tripod will get your camera into any situation or angle you could ever need. It takes some getting used to, as it is a little like wrestling with an octopus, as the legs and beam, can be individually rotated through 360 degrees! It is a unique tripod and heavy, but at around £70.00 (second-hand), it is superb for 'macro' work and amazing value for money.
Waterproof Tripod Leg Protectors are an essential item for wet and dirty environments, especially when using an expensive tripod. |
These are available from Amazon and great quality: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JVHDJJQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=pinabarw-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07JVHDJJQ&linkId=496813610da841440231256cfa030dbb |
When a tripod is not practical, a good monopod, will give stability.......especially, with a longer lens. |
A simple bean bag is a cheap and lightweight useful support.......ideal for use on the ground, fence posts, car windows etc. |
I find the battery grip, makes the camera much better balanced (especially with larger lenses fitted), as well as doubling up my battery capacity. On a long day, I can easily take over a thousand shots, which would kill just one battery.
The wireless remote, is invaluable, as it allows me to set up the camera on a subject and move well away......leaving me in a potentially safer/more comfortable environment, safe in the knowledge that I can fire the shutter from up to 100 mtrs away. This is useful in a number of different situations and I frequently use this in my garden, late at night when photographing astronomical subjects, whilst controlling the shutter from the warmth of my lounge. No need for timer activation and no vibration from pressing the shutter on the camera!
I'm sure that I have forgotten some items, but hopefully, this should cover the majority of questions that i'm regularly asked!
I hope that this blog has enlightened you, as to some of the equipment I use and also given you some ideas for your own photography.
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